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Choosing oil for a Harley-Davidson sounds as though it should be simple.
Then you start looking.
20W-50. Synthetic. Semi-synthetic. Mineral. Engine oil. Primary oil. Gear oil. Products advertised for all three holes. Different recommendations for different engines and climates.
Before long, a straightforward oil change can turn into an evening spent reading conflicting opinions on internet forums.
It doesn't need to be that complicated.
The most important rule is also the simplest: Use a lubricant of the correct type, viscosity and specification for your particular motorcycle.
This guide explains what those terms mean, why different parts of many Harley-Davidson motorcycles use separate lubricants, and what you should consider before choosing an oil.
Quick answer: There isn't one oil specification that should blindly be used in every Harley-Davidson ever made. The correct lubricant depends on the model, year, engine and where in the motorcycle it's being used. Your owner's manual or correct service information should therefore be the starting point.
Engine oil has a difficult job. It has to provide a lubricating film between moving components while dealing with heat, contamination and repeated temperature changes.
It also helps carry contaminants towards the filter and contributes to cooling and corrosion protection.
That's why choosing oil purely by brand or price misses the important part. Specification comes first.
If you've owned Harley-Davidson motorcycles for any length of time, you'll almost certainly have encountered 20W-50.
20W-50 is a multigrade viscosity classification. The first number—the 20W part—relates to the oil's low-temperature behaviour. The second number—the 50—relates to its viscosity characteristics at higher operating temperature.
It does not mean the oil literally changes from a 20-weight oil into a 50-weight oil as it warms up.
For many Harley-Davidson applications, 20W-50 has historically been a commonly specified viscosity. That doesn't mean every Harley takes 20W-50. Always check the specification for the motorcycle in front of you.
This subject can generate almost religious levels of debate. In practice, the decision doesn't need to be ideological. The lubricant needs to meet the requirements of the application.
Mineral oils use conventionally refined base oils combined with an additive package. Quality mineral motorcycle oils can provide perfectly satisfactory service where they're appropriate for the application.
Synthetic lubricants use highly engineered base stocks designed to provide particular performance characteristics. Potential benefits can include good high-temperature stability, low-temperature performance and resistance to oxidation.
But the word synthetic on the bottle doesn't automatically make an oil suitable for every Harley-Davidson.
Semi-synthetic—or synthetic blend—oils combine conventional and synthetic base stocks. Again, the important consideration is whether the finished lubricant is suitable for the intended application.
Not automatically.
A high-quality synthetic oil can be an excellent choice in an appropriate Harley-Davidson application. So can an appropriate high-quality mineral oil.
The mistake is comparing oils solely on whether the label says synthetic. Viscosity, specification, additive package, operating conditions and engine requirements all matter.
Synthetic oil doesn't possess some mysterious ability to create holes in seals.
However, an older engine may already have aged seals, gaskets or deposits around areas that aren't completely oil-tight. Changing lubricant can sometimes make an existing seepage issue more noticeable.
If an older motorcycle begins leaking, investigate the actual source rather than simply declaring that synthetic oil causes leaks.
One of the biggest differences between many Harley-Davidson motorcycles and a large number of other motorcycles is the separation of the major lubrication systems.
Depending on the model, you may have separate lubricant requirements for:
You'll sometimes hear owners refer to servicing the three holes. Changing the engine oil does not automatically mean you've serviced the primary or transmission.
Engine oil lubricates the engine's internal components and carries contamination towards the oil filter. It deals with combustion-related contaminants and substantial temperature variation.
Use the viscosity and specification appropriate to the particular motorcycle and conditions.
The primary drive has a different job. On many Harley-Davidson motorcycles it contains the primary chain, compensating components and clutch assembly.
The lubricant therefore has to be appropriate for that environment. One particularly important consideration is clutch compatibility.
The transmission presents another set of lubrication demands. Gears and bearings operate under high contact loads and require suitable protection.
Depending on the motorcycle and manufacturer recommendations, the specified transmission lubricant may differ from the engine and primary products.
Some lubricants are specifically marketed and approved by their manufacturers for use in multiple Harley-Davidson applications. Others aren't.
Therefore the useful answer isn't simply yes or no. Only use a lubricant in a particular compartment if its manufacturer and the motorcycle's requirements support that application.
This is an important exception to the general three-hole discussion.
Traditional Sportster designs don't simply follow the same lubrication layout as Harley-Davidson Big Twins. The engine lubrication is separate, while the primary drive and transmission share lubricant on many Sportster applications.
That alone demonstrates why generic advice such as “put this in all three holes” can be misleading.
Harley-Davidson engine families span decades of development.
An Evolution Big Twin from the 1980s, a later Twin Cam and a modern Milwaukee-Eight shouldn't automatically be treated as though every service specification is interchangeable.
Even within one engine family, recommendations can vary according to year, model and operating conditions.
Oil viscosity recommendations can take ambient temperature into account.
A motorcycle being operated in extreme heat isn't necessarily working under the same conditions as one being used through a British spring.
Use the manufacturer's guidance rather than automatically changing viscosity because the weather forecast says it'll be warm.
There are plenty of reputable lubricant manufacturers producing excellent motorcycle oils.
What matters most is that the product is genuine, correctly specified, suitable for the application and sourced from somewhere you trust.
We'd choose on specification first, manufacturer reputation second, and price after that.
Fresh engine oil is only half of an engine oil service.
The filter is there to capture contamination circulating through the lubrication system. A typical quality filter may contain filter media, a bypass valve, an anti-drainback valve where required, internal support structures and sealing components.
The bypass valve is particularly misunderstood. Its purpose isn't to routinely allow dirty oil to avoid filtration. It provides an alternative flow path when restriction across the filter becomes excessive under the conditions for which the system was designed.
A filter is therefore more than a threaded metal can.
Workshop Tip: Before fitting any filter, confirm that it's the correct application. Thread size alone isn't enough to establish suitability. Filter dimensions, internal design, bypass characteristics and other specifications can differ even when two filters appear remarkably similar externally.
This is another question where a generic answer can cause problems.
Oil capacities vary. The quoted capacity and the amount required during a routine oil change aren't always something you should treat as interchangeable without consulting the correct procedure.
The sensible approach is to follow the specified filling procedure and verify the final level correctly rather than simply pouring in a quantity found on a random forum.
More oil isn't better. An engine needs the correct quantity.
Overfilling can cause problems just as running with insufficient oil can.
Oil-level checking procedures vary between motorcycles.
Factors can include whether the motorcycle should be upright or on its stand, engine temperature, whether the level is checked before or after running, how long the oil should be allowed to settle and the particular dipstick procedure.
Follow the instructions for your motorcycle.
Some oil consumption can occur during normal engine operation. How much is acceptable depends on the engine, mileage, conditions and manufacturer's specifications.
If consumption suddenly increases, don't simply keep topping it up indefinitely. Look for possible causes and make sure the oil isn't being overfilled in the first place.
Dark oil isn't automatically worn-out oil.
Detergent and dispersant additives are designed to help manage contamination and keep deposits suspended so they can be removed during servicing.
Colour alone therefore isn't a reliable measure of remaining oil life.
If the motorcycle is going to sit unused for a prolonged period, there can be advantages to storing it with fresh rather than heavily used engine oil.
Used oil can contain moisture and combustion contaminants. However, storage requirements vary, and an oil change is only one part of preparing a motorcycle for an extended lay-up.
If the service history is uncertain, establishing a maintenance baseline is often worthwhile.
That can mean checking or replacing relevant fluids and filters so you know exactly where you stand.
Write down the date, mileage, lubricant used, filter used and other service work completed.
It depends on model, year, engine, operating conditions and which part of the motorcycle you're lubricating. Check the appropriate owner's or service information.
20W-50 is commonly specified for many Harley-Davidson applications, but don't assume it applies universally.
A correctly specified quality synthetic oil can be an excellent choice in suitable applications.
No. A quality mineral oil can be perfectly appropriate where it meets the motorcycle's requirements.
Synthetic oil doesn't create failed seals. An older engine may already have sealing issues that become more noticeable after a lubricant change.
Only if the particular lubricant is suitable for that application and meets the relevant requirements.
Some products are designed for multiple applications. Don't assume every engine oil is.
Many traditional Sportster models use separate engine oil while the primary and transmission share lubricant, so they shouldn't simply be treated like a Big Twin three-compartment arrangement.
Follow the service schedule for the motorcycle. Engine oil and filter replacement are commonly carried out together during routine servicing.
Price alone tells you very little about whether an oil is suitable or how long it should remain in service.
Don't extend the manufacturer's service interval simply because you've chosen a synthetic lubricant unless appropriate service information specifically supports doing so.
Colour alone doesn't establish whether oil needs replacing.
Don't assume it is. Use a lubricant suitable for the specific motorcycle application and compartment.
Oil discussions have a habit of becoming unnecessarily complicated.
Most of that noise can be avoided by returning to fundamentals.
Identify the motorcycle. Identify the application. Check the required specification. Use a good-quality lubricant that meets it. Change it at the appropriate interval. Maintain the correct level.
That's considerably more useful than arguing about which logo looks best on the bottle.
Oil isn't an exciting modification. Nobody is likely to admire your choice of lubricant at a bike night.
But inside the engine, primary and transmission, those lubricants are working every mile you ride.
Choosing correctly doesn't require becoming a lubrication engineer. It simply requires resisting generic advice.
A 30-year-old Evolution Big Twin isn't necessarily the same proposition as a modern Milwaukee-Eight. A Sportster isn't automatically lubricated in the same way as a Touring model. And the fact that an oil works brilliantly in one compartment doesn't automatically make it the right choice for another.
Start with the motorcycle's requirements. Everything else follows from there.
Hogparts is an independent UK supplier of aftermarket parts and accessories for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. Hogparts is not affiliated with, endorsed by or authorised by Harley-Davidson Motor Company. Harley-Davidson names and model references are used solely for identification and compatibility purposes.
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